If the water were flowing in the correct direction, the water flow would help slow that ball down and have it sit much more softly into the seat. With the water flowing against the direction of the arrow, it is slamming the ball against the seat when the motor closes the valve. The motor rotates this arm back and forth to place the ball into a metal seat and to remove it. There is a small swing arm with a rubber ball at the end of it. Thanks again for all of your help-taking the additional time from your busy schedule-this is a perfect example of how good these forums can work. Tim, what would you recommend for an exact bolt-in circulator replacement? You suggested a Grundfos Alpha or Wilo ECO.with 9 zones in this place, I want to make sure that I have enough flow for all zones if they are running. Interestingly enough-the guys replaced the radiant heat circulator(thought it was bad) from a Taco 007-ZF5-9 to a Taco 007-ZF5-5. For the most part, the guys did a good job. Unfortunately, there was no record on the installation-and who put it in the first time.
#Hello neighbor alpha 4 sunroom install#
They hired a local boiler company to perform the work-and had to figure out what the entanglement of pipe was, and install everything back. As part of the deal of me buying the house-the bank had to put back the boiler and IHW system-and get everything checked out. House was foreclosed on, and owner stripped everything out of the house including boiler and indirect hot water system. As you can see-previous owner dumped a boatload of $ getting this system put in. House was built in 2003, and the system was installed by 'somebody' then. Possibly what's making you detect a "boo-boo.". The pumps seems to be on the wrong legs and pumping in the wrong directions. Wish I could put my finger on what's wrong with that piping. If this works, we might recommend that a 'differential bypass valve' be installed in the place of that ball valve. Remember that like 90% of a ball valve's throttling is in the first 10% of it's opening. just a wee flow to relieve some of the differential pressure in that (closed) loop. Theoretically, one isn't supposed to 'throttle' a ball valve, but for a short term test there shouldn't be any problem.
#Hello neighbor alpha 4 sunroom crack#
crack that closed ball valve open a wee bit and see what effect it has on the hammering. I'm afraid that there's a fundamental boo-boo there. It will ramp up and down depending on how many zones are open / closed. that pump has a sensor in it that allows the pump to adjust it's speed based on how much differential pressure exists across the pump.
and that ball valve (closed) on the manifold above the zone valves.
something is just fundamentally wrong I think. I'm tired right now, but something about this install bugs me. The zone valves are on the return side, and the flow arrows should be pointing TOWARD the manifold. The pump on the other loop, on the left, is pumping UP, so the hot supplies are coming off the top. Not an immediate concern, just something to put on your punch list. If so, then the expansion tank is in the right place.Īs I mentioned though, that pump should at some point in the future be turned 90° so the motor shaft is horizontal. the hot supply FROM the boiler is on the bottom and the next pipe up is going back to the boiler, correct?
The loop on the bottom, to and from the boiler. ItsTim: The circulator you suggest-how would this help? Does this circulator turn off during a valve close? Either way.not a quick fix.I don't think! Now.if I can only kill that circulator for a few seconds exactly when a valve closes-think I would have it. At the moment, the expansion tank is useless, as the 'hammer' bangs around all the pipes before it comes back at the top of the manifold.Īnd yes-the circulator continues to flow when valves are shut off and on. Note where the expansion tank is.if flow were to go counter clockwise.the expansion tank would work (I think). The Honeywell valves are orientated the wrong way! Yikes-guess I either.get 'em to change the flow going counter-clockwise or unsolder and flip all those valves around. NJ Trooper: You hit the nail on the head! The darn Honeywell valves are installed backwards!! Or.the boiler folks set the flow wrong in the system! If one looks at the picture, the flow rotates 'clockwise' across the manifold. I've heard this suggestion before.and you put me over the edge to try. Rbeck-great suggestion-we pulled one spring loose on all valves-alas-the hammering continues.
The bank paid to have a new boiler and indirect hot water tank installed-and had to create an 'educated guess' on how everything went. One of the things the previous owner stripped out was the boiler. Wow-thanks so much for all of the feedback! Gilmorrie, I mispoke-it's nine zones! Have a 5.800' house with a four car garage-we were going to build, but bought this house as a foreclosure, and took a year to put it back together.
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